September 23-27, 1999 Skagway, Alaska, USA Update by Jim & Andrew We departed Valdez mid-day Thursday morning 09/23 bound towards Skagway, Alaska. The total drive will be about 600 miles so we plan to head back north to Tok and press on Thursday evening after a quick dinner at "Fast Eddies" in Tok to get closer to Haines and the ferry across to Skagway. We had secured reservations on the 7:45PM ferry Friday evening. Every time we bounce back and forth between Alaska and Canada we gain/lose an hour going from Pacific to Alaska time. At this point we don't know what time it is!! After a dinner @ 6:00 or 7:00 PM of fresh halibut steaks and lots of caffeine we press on to the Canadian border at Beaver Creek, Yukon. Motel 1202 or a campsite is our destination depending upon weather as it has started to rain/snow. Motel 1202 (mile 1202 on the Alaskan Highway- creative name!!) looks somewhat questionable from the outside but manager "Maurice" gives us a deal on a HUGE remolded room on the second floor- 2 king beds, 1 single, 2 pullout sofas, kitchen and GIGANTIC Bison Head on the wall! Talk about nightmares - Rufus whimpered all night. We are told this is a favorite spot for the caribou & bear hunters - They pile them in. Andrew finds Maurice and they disappear across the road to sight a Timber wolf and Moose!! What a noise those big guys make. We were up early with 350 miles to travel to catch our ferry at Haines, Alaska to Skagway - the only way to get from one place to the other. We had some hefty mountains to cross and the snow had just begun. We had slow going for about an hour and then drove out of the weather. We traversed the beautiful Chilkat Pass at 3500 feet and descended the other side down to the sea and the port of Haines. Andrew sniffed out the local microbrewery and we secured a "growler" of Haines stout, some well-heated bean burritos and awaited the ferry departure. No comments on the results of the bean burritos!! Skagway found us at the luxurious "White House" B&B. This is truly a wonderful B&B not to miss if you travel to Skagway - but make your reservations early as they are always booked during the busy summer season. They have a great web site too. Owners Jon and Jan were most gracious yet did not have accomodations for Rufus & Cleo. We decided to let the puppies sleep in the truck that night and then find alternative lodging for the following two nights. Jan was most helpful in placing us at "Sargent Preston 's Lodge" around the corner. Our ferry on The Inside Passage south did not leave until Monday evening. Across the street from The White House B&B live Gary and Janilyn Hegen. She was from Portland, OR and spotted the truck - who couldn't with all the antennas and decals!! JW was quickly "propositioned" on the street and Andrew and I were offered a home-cooked meal that evening. Janilyn works for the White Pass & Yukon Railroad and Gary is a general contractor and outstanding photographer. ( He saw Michael Slade's www.Dreamlab.cc decal. After camp cooking with white gas as the major "spice" this was an offer that we could not refuse. We assembled at their house at 5:30 that evening with local residents, Shawn, Ginger, Mark, and Heath and son Lucas to feast on fresh shrimp, halibut chunks wrapped in bacon and grilled (WOW!!) spaghetti and salad. What a great evening! Lucas was quick to show us his awesome dirt bike that Andrew will try out after school on Monday. Janilyn continued to outdo herself by providing us with complimentary tickets for the historic 3-hour railroad trip up the famous Gold Rush Stampeders' White Pass on the following morning. It is truly unbelievable how these 10's of thousands of gold seekers hiked up this 65-mile trail to gain access to the Klondike gold fields. After the train trip, we grabbed a quick lunch at "The Sweet Tooth Café" and off to another surprise - Janilyn arranged a helicopter trip to the local glacier fields!! Andrew & I put on our required life vests and heaving boots and lifted off bound for the 6500' West Creek Glacier - After 20 minutes of breathtaking flying over the mountain peaks we LANDED on the glacier!! It was a truly inspiring event as we walked out upon this "Aqua Velva" color blue ice shield. A moment we shall always remember. Our day concluded at The Stowaway Café for the BEST fresh grilled Salmon steaks and a bottle of red "Vino Collapso". Today, Monday we prepare the truck and dogs for our four day Inside Passage voyage down the coast of Alaska & British Columbia terminating at the border in Bellingham WA on Friday 10/1. We are excited about the viewing of glaciers, whales and multitude of wildlife along the coastline as we weave in and out of these many islands along the route. For those of you following our journey on a map, we depart from Skagway and begin our travel southeast to the ports of Haines, Juneau, Hoonah, Tenakee, Angoon, Sitka, Kake, Petersburg, Wrangle, Hollis, Ketchikan, Prince Rupert, and then continue onto Bellingham, Washington. The ship we are travelling on is the 418 foot "MV Columbia" flagship of the Alaska Marine Highway System's fleet. She can carry 625 passengers & 134 vehicles and has 91 staterooms. Camping is permitted on the afterdeck and is free and very popular. However we have been advised that we will probably need to 'ducktape" out tent to the deck to keep in secure in the wind!! Another anticipated adventure awaits us!! We hope to be able to provide updates during our weeklong voyage either when stopping in the various ports or aboard via our satellite telephone. Our travelling companions Rufus & Cleo continue to entertain folks and us we meet. We have enjoyed a great expedition and look forward to our final exciting Inside Passage journey and the comforts of home and family. Later - Bon Voyage!! Jim Andrew Rufus and Cleo from The Pacific Northwest and Skagway, Alaska - Gateway to The Klondike!!
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